Paying homage to an openly gay talented rock climber of the 1930's

There are few openly gay climbers and mountaineers pioneering new routes today. Few would envisage a problem if there were. Things were different in the 1930’s when John Menlove Edwards was pioneering the routes I love today. Classic climbs such as Flying Buttress and Great/Bow combination on Clogwyn Du’r Arddu were first climbed by this innovative and talented character. After a summer of climbing some of his classic climbs today we at Pride Expeditions pay homage to this legendary figure.

John Menlove Edwards one of Britains’ leading climbers in the 1930’s who tragically committed suicide in 1958

John was a prolific climber and one of his first new ascents was Western Slabs on Dinas Mot. This blank looking shield of rock is in the Llanberis pass and is still quite an undertaking today. With modern rock shoes and safety equipment these steep, sparsely featured walls regularly relent to a confident attack from climbers today. John being the first to climb it would have been wearing hob nailed boots and would have had no idea of the difficulties that lay ahead of him.

A milder and less imposing route first climbed by J.M.E in 1931 can be found on the opposite side of the Llanberis pass to Dinas Mot. Flying Buttress, one of the easier climbs on the mighty walls of Dinas Cromlech, is a favourite route of mine when guiding clients who really want to experience the exposure and steepness of rock climbing in Llanberis Pass without the extreme difficulties that are normally apparent. This route was climbed in a year of excellence for John Menlove Edwards during which he put up daring and adventurous first ascents all over the mountains of Snowdonia.

Wilco following up the penultimate pitch of Flying Buttress with the ant-like car far below

In 1930’s Britain, society held bigoted prejudices towards gay men. Although few knew that J.M.E was gay this must have been a constant source of distress and anxiety for him. He was gifted with an array of talents as a climber, a writer and a poet. Tragically he also suffered from mental instabilities and suffered the degrading experience of electric shock therapy in Denbigh mental hospital. It is generally accepted that his decline was due to the intolerant attitude of society towards his personal life and loves. He was eventually overcome by darkness and committed suicide by taking potassium cyanide at the age of 48.

Adam on a classic by J.M.E. Great/Bow combination on the imposing amphitheater of Clogwyn Du’r Arddu

As a mountaineering and climbing community we owe a debt of gratitude to this amazing man. His legacy should not be taken for granted and he should not be forgotten. In life his deeds pioneered the classic rock climbs we enjoy today. His death reminds us of the impacts intolerance can have on great people.

Every homophobic comment has incalculable repercussions that take a toll on peoples lives. Parallels can be drawn between Edwards and Alan Turing. Both led noble and exemplary lives yet had tragic ends.

John Menlove Edwards was arguably the leading rock climber of the 1930’s and every Summer when we climb his routes for fun or for work we will pay homage to him. We will stop and Thank society for its enlightenment but will remember that it has only come recently and we will remember that it is not on a Worldwide scale.

The mighty cliffs of Clogwyn Du’r Arddu have borne witness to many a struggle.

Menlove was finally broken because he stood out for that in which he believed and ultimately was unable to conform to or join with a society incompatible with his own morality.
Stuart Pregnall, Climbing 1985, December, No. 93, p. 67-69

The life and times of John Menlove Edwards. A figure that should not be forgotten. More can be read in Jim Perrin’s excellent biography Menlove. This blog has been written by Nick Read, Mountaineering Instructor and Managing Director of Pride Expeditions.